At first, I had intended to come to study and live in Japan for just one year. However, while living here, I began to want to experience Japanese culture some more, so I decided to go on without a pause to a university. I lived in Nagasaki for three years and have been living in Hyogo for four years. One day in January, soon after the New Year began, I decided to stroll around Nishinomiya. My objective was to try my luck at the Shinto ritual Fukuotoko-erabi (Selecting a lucky man). Because the drawing of lots for starting lines would be done late at night at Nishinomiya Shrine, I headed to Nishinomiya a little early. I also decided to go to the revered Koshien (a famous Japanese baseball stadium).

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Looking at an Evening Glow at Shin Nishinomiya Yacht Harbor that Would Seem to Purify Your Soul.

Shin Nishinomiya Yacht Harbor is about 30 minutes away by bus from JR Nishinomiya Station and about 20 minutes away by bus from Nishinomiya Station on the Hanshin Main Line.

I took the bus and arrived at the shore along Shin Nishinomiya Yacht Harbor. This yacht harbor is a landmark that symbolizes the lifestyle along the seaside of Nishinomiya.The sight of the ocean and yachts spreading out before my eyes was like that from another world. While waiting for the evening sun to go down, I headed toward Center House.

Center House

In addition to conference rooms and event spaces, Center House also has restaurants and stalls that sell marine goods. The Mermaid, the boat that Kansai Yacht Club honorary member and adventurer Ken'ichi Horie was on when he succeeded in sailing solo across the Pacific Ocean, was displayed in the center. They say that, in 1962, Mr. Horie was the world's first person to accomplish the feat of sailing solo and non-stop across the Pacific Ocean. In 2022, he was the world's oldest person, at age 83, to accomplish that feat of sailing solo and non-stop across the Pacific Ocean, so he is also recorded in Guinness.

When I learned that the departure point of the Mermaid, the yacht that he was on board, was here in Nishinomiya and sensed the adventurous spirit of this yacht harbor, which had supported his attempts and dreams, I gradually became enveloped in the twilight sky.

Dusk at the yacht harbor

In this mystical scene, a faint light shone through openings in the clouds. In this stillness, where I could hear only the sounds of the wind and the waves, I felt as if I might be the only person in existence in the world. More than feeling lonely, I felt very tranquil. I also felt refreshed as if my soul had been purified. After this, I would head to Nishinomiya Shrine, where the sacred Shinto ritual is performed.

Off to Toka Ebisu, a Festival at Nishinomiya Shrine to Summon Good Fortune

Nishinomiya Shrine is about a five-minute walk from Nishinomiya Station on the Hanshin Main Line. The shrine is famous for deifying Ebisu-sama. People in Japan believe in Ebisu-sama as the god of thriving businesses and fishing. The Toka Ebisu Festival, held in January, is particularly famous, so lots of visitors visit the shrine.

The Toka Ebisu Festival at Nishinomiya Shrine is held every year from January 9th to the 11th. The day I visited the shrine was truly in the middle of the festival period. The shrine was very lively and filled with energy.

I also visited Nishinomiya Shrine to pray for good fortune this year. I drew an omikuji fortune slip.

A sea bream mikuji fortune slip (¥300). The sea bream doll will be kept as a souvenir.

The sea bream mikuji fortune slip, through which you try your luck by selecting a sea bream doll made from baked clay, is a Nishinomiya Shrine original. It is given at the Shinto shrine concurrently with the Toka Ebisu period. Omikuji is a lot you draw at a Japanese Shinto shrine or Buddhist temple that will tell your fortune. My result was...

Wow! It was a suekichi (good luck to come). Suekichi (good luck to come) is one result of the Japanese omikuji fortune slips. They say it means something good will happen in your future; however, for now, you need to be a little reserved, be patient, and exert yourself.

Goheimochi skewered sweet rice cake is an item of the local cuisine handed down in localities such as the prefectures of Nagano, Gifu, and Aichi.

A lot of yatai stalls were lined up along the path leading to the shrine. Yatai stalls are little shops that sell food and drinks, and you can also enjoy playing games there. These yatai stalls are regular fixtures at Japanese festivals.

The light from chochin lanterns lit up the surrounding area, creating a fantastic atmosphere. I'll introduce you to some of the things I ate at the yatai stalls lined up along the path to the shrine!

Drawn by a sweet aroma, I tried a goheimochi skewered sweet rice cake before anything else. I ate it for the first time. It is a snack in which cooked rice is crushed and placed evenly on skewers and grilled over a charcoal fire, and it has a springy texture. The salty-sweet sauce with a soy sauce cooking base tasted very sweet.

Ikayaki grilled squid. A salty-sweet sauce made with ingredients such as soy sauce is poured on a squid, and the squid is grilled.

Oden stew. It is an item of traditional Japanese hot pot cooking. Ingredients such as daikon radish, boiled egg, and nerimono fish cake (a traditional Japanese food item made with minced fish as its main ingredient) are simmered in a soup made from kelp and katsuobushi dried bonito flakes.

Taiyaki fish-shaped stuffed pancake. This is a traditional Japanese sweet. It is a sweet in which dough made from wheat flour is baked in the shape of a fish (the shape of a tai sea bream) whose inside is filled with sweet anko (a paste made from red beans called "adzuki beans").

Amazake sweet drink at Okame Chaya cafe. This drink is non-alcoholic.

Phew, I was full because I had eaten all sorts of things. I dropped in at Okame Chaya cafe, a rest area on the grounds of the shrine, and took a breather. Finally, I drank an amazake sweet drink, a traditional Japanese drink. Japanese amazake sweet drink has a non-alcoholic version made by using koji malt, which is indispensable for fermented food, and a version containing alcohol, made by using sake wine lees, left over after fermenting rice during the making of sake wine. The amazake sweet drink at Okame Chaya cafe was non-alcoholic, being made with koji malt. Hot amazake sweet drink is slightly sweet, and it warmed up both my heart and body.

After this and in preparation for tomorrow's Fukuotoko-erabi (Selecting a lucky man), I decided to leisurely spend some time at the hotel I was staying at.

HOTEL LiVEMAX Nishinomiya. It is about a four-minute walk from Nishinomiya Station on the Hanshin Main Line.

For my accommodations, I stayed at HOTEL LiVEMAX Nishinomiya. It is about a seven-minute walk to Nishinomiya Shrine. Thus, I also felt at ease because participating in the early morning ritual would be very close to the hotel. A coffee server free of charge had been set up at the front desk on the first floor. My room felt clean, and the soundproofing also worked well, so I was about to pleasantly fall asleep. Early morning tomorrow was finally here, so I must head to the Shinto ritual Fukuotoko-erabi (selecting a lucky man)! My heart was pounding...

The Starting Time was Here At Last for the Fukuotoko-erabi (Selecting a lucky man).

Waiting for the 6:00 A.M. start.

The Fukuotoko-erabi (Selecting a lucky man) is a traditional Shinto ritual of the Nishinomiya Shrine that is performed every year on January 10th. Aiming to be the first lucky person to reach the goal, visitors to the shrine run through the grounds at full speed. The first three persons to reach the goal are that year's fukuotoko (lucky men). It is said that good fortune will be visited on them. Starting lines are determined the night before through a drawing of lots. I would be running in the general participants bracket of Block C.

The surrounding area was still dark before daybreak, and my body temperature felt like it was a minus degree. A lot of people were already gathered in front of the shrine. I heard the yells of the runners who had drawn winning lots to be in Blocks A and B. Tension gradually began to hang in the air over the surrounding area. Because I was feeling so excited, I no longer felt very cold, and that is when the starting time finally arrived...!

The start. We start running in unison at the same time that the gate opens.

The sound of drums signaled the opening of the gate at 6:00 A.M. Things were silent for a moment. Then I started to hear people's voices as I approached the inner shrine. There were many people in Block C, so it was really difficult to run, but I went forward with a fast walk. I was only thinking as follows: "In any case, move forward!"

General participants, excluding those in Blocks A and B, go forward at their own pace.

Taking pictures of the backs of this year's fukuotoko (lucky men)!

I reached the finish line, the inner shrine! The people who were this year's fukuotoko (lucky men) had already reached it. They were awarded yellow happi coats.

I learned later one about the following in the newspaper. One of this year's fukuotoko (lucky men) was from Takarazuka, Hyogo Prefecture, and a second-year high school student in the school's track and field club. During an interview, he said, "I want to engage in fund-raising activities for the sake of the earthquake victims and share with them the good fortune I obtained." I felt again that the Fukuotoko-erabi (selecting a lucky man) in Nishinomiya is not only about deciding on a winner, the ritual also includes the meaning of sharing one's good fortune.

My Proof of Visiting the Gate Opening Shinto Ritual. The color of the strap changes every year. It is pink in 2025.

Participating in the ritual was a first-time experience, so I was nervous at first about what would happen. However, I felt relief in successfully reaching the finish line. A Proof of Visiting the Gate Opening Shinto Ritual, which serves as proof that you participated in the gate opening Shinto ritual, is given to the first 5,000 people to reach the finish line. I was very happy to get one.

For a two-day period, I experienced good fortune and dreams at Ninomiya, the revered town. I feel like I can embark on a lucky year!

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Spots

Shin Nishinomiya Yacht Harbor
https://sinnisi-yh.co.jp/
Address: 4-16-1 Nishinomiya-hama, Nishinomiya, Hyogo Prefecture
TEL: 0798-33-0651
Business hours: 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. (open until 5:30 P.M. during the peak season)
Admission fee: Free

Nishinomiya Shrine
https://nishinomiya-ebisu.com/
https://www.instagram.com/nishinomiya_ebisu_official/
Address: 1-17 Shakecho, Nishinomiya, Hyogo Prefecture
TEL: 0798-33-0321
Opening hours:
* April to August: 5:00 A.M. to 7:00 P.M.
* September and March: 5:00 A.M. to 6:30 P.M.
* October to February: 5:00 A.M. to 6:00 P.M.
Shrine office hours: 9:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M.

HOTEL LiVEMAX Nishinomiya
https://www.hotel-livemax.com/hyogo/nishinomiya/
Address: 5-29 Honmachi, Nishinomiya, Hyogo Prefecture
TEL: 0798-26-0440
Front desk hours: 3:00 P.M. to 8:00 A.M. the next day