Deep in the countryside of Hyogo Prefecture lies Nishiwaki City, known affectionately as “Japan's Heso”—the literal belly button of Japan. Why? Because geographically, Nishiwaki sits at the exact center of the country.

At the heart of this peaceful town is tamaki niime, a brand that has reimagined the craft of Banshu-ori, which began in the late 18th century into contemporary, wearable art for people all over the world.

Honestly, before visiting, I thought I might just learn a bit about fabric weaving. But what I found here was so much bigger—a complete way of thinking about creativity, sustainability, and what it means to live and work with purpose.

Easily accessible by train, this hidden spot might just become your personal doorway into the very center of Japan's textile culture.

What is Banshu-ori?

To understand tamaki niime, you first need to know the story of Banshu-ori. Banshu-ori is a traditional textile technique that originated over 200 years ago in this very region. This textile is unique for its sakizome (先染め) method, where threads are dyed before they’re woven. This allows for intricate patterns and deep, layered colors that feel alive in the fabric.

In Banshu-ori threads are dyed before they’re woven

Historically, Banshu-ori has been used in everything from crisp business shirts to fabrics for high-end global fashion brands. But when Niime Tamaki, the founder of tamaki niime, discovered Banshu-ori, she saw potential for something beyond the expected. Instead of limiting herself to stiff, uniform shirts, she began creating airy, flowing shawls, loose-fitting clothing, and playful, colorful designs. Each piece is a true one-of-a-kind, made from small-batch dyed threads and woven with care.

Stepping into the World of Tamaki Niime

Perhaps what makes tamaki niime so special is the perspective of its founder, Niime Tamaki herself.

Tamaki-san is originally from Fukui Prefecture, another region deeply connected to Japan’s textile history. Fukui is well-known for its own orimono (織物) industry, particularly for producing fine silk fabrics and synthetic textiles used in everything from kimono to high-tech materials.

Growing up surrounded by Fukui’s fabric culture, Tamaki-san developed a natural love for clothes and materials. But when she encountered an artisan of Banshu-ori at a textile event, something about its potential captured her imagination. It wasn’t just the beauty of the fabric—it was the idea that no two pieces are ever the same. Each length of cloth, each thread, carried its own story.

In the shop of tamaki niime you won`t find two pieces alike

My visit started with a full tour of the Lab & Shop, located in a renovated old dye factory.This whole environment feels like an extension of Tamaki-san’s philosophy: that good things—whether fabric or food or community—should be made carefully, locally, and sustainably.

Different animals are roaming freely on the grounds

From the outside, it feels like arriving at a small village: dogs, sheep, and even alpacas roam freely on the grounds, and in summer, cotton plants grow in the fields nearby. And where better to build this dream than Japan’s heso? It feels symbolic that, in the center of the country, Tamaki-san has created a center of creativity—a place where old skills and new ideas meet.

Touring the Lab

Walking through the Lab, I was able to witness every step of the process—dyeing, weaving, sewing, and finishing. Rows of brightly colored threads lined the walls, each waiting its turn to become fabric. In the background, vintage looms from the last century clattered away, filling the air with a steady, rhythmic soundtrack as the cloth slowly took shape.

Walking through the Lab5

Amazing colors!

One of the most impressive things I found out during my visit was the collaboration happening behind the scenes. Young staff members work side by side with veteran artisans, not only learning the techniques to create the fabrics but also how to care for and maintain these old machines. It’s a kind of sustainability that goes beyond materials, preserving the knowledge and tools of the past to ensure they keep running for future generations.

Here, they use the same machines that were used more than 50 years ago!

The fabrics themselves are dyed in small batches using custom color recipes, making the process as unique as the final pieces. And here, no two pieces are ever the same. Every shawl, shirt, and pair of pants is truly one of a kind!

But what stayed with me the most was how personal it all felt. Every person in the Lab seemed deeply connected to the work, fully aware that they were helping to create something special. There’s no mass production here. No rushing. Just the quiet, focused rhythm of real craftsmanship, unfolding at its own perfect pace.

Making My Own Shawl

After the tour, I got to try my hand at making my very own shawl. Well, "making" might be a bit of an overstatement—I wasn’t weaving the fabric from scratch! But I was able to choose from pre-made textiles, cut my shawl to the perfect length, finish the edges with help from a staff member, and finally, sew on the official tamaki niime tag myself.

In attempts to make my own shawl

I didn’t expect this small act of creating to feel so meaningful. But somehow, knowing exactly how the fabric was made, meeting the people behind it, and putting the final touches on my own piece made it feel like I wasn’t just buying a souvenir—I was taking home a piece of the story.

How I Felt After the Experience

Honestly, I left tamaki niime feeling inspired. I’ve visited many craft workshops in Japan, but this place felt different.

Tamaki-san herself

I also had the chance to speak with Tamaki-san herself, and it was incredibly inspiring to meet the person behind such a massive project. Honestly, I couldn’t believe that from what feels like the middle of nowhere, she’s built something this big—a team of over 100 people, all working together to bring her vision to life. Seeing the scale of it in person made me realize just how much passion and determination are woven into every part of tamaki niime.

Her vision is so clear: to create things that are comfortable, joyful, and sustainable, not just for the people wearing them, but for the people making them—and for the land it all comes from. And that vision has clearly attracted the right people. Everyone I met during my visit, from the artisans at the looms to the staff guiding the shawl-making experience, was warm, welcoming, and genuinely proud of what they do.

How to Visit tamaki niime

●Reservations: Book in advance via the official website.

●Experience fees: Shawl-making starts from around ¥4,400.

※To reserve a shawl-making experience along with your Lab visit (with a shawl SMALL included), please indicate your interest in the remarks section when booking through the official website. If the requested date is available, you will receive a reply confirming this. Alternatively, you can request the experience at the tamaki niime Shop register when you visit after reserving your Lab tour. The designers will accommodate your request on available dates, so please note that there may be situations where certain dates are not possible.

●Access: From JR Himeji Station, take the JR Kakogawa Line and get off at Nishiwakishi Station. From there, you can either transfer to JR Kakogawa Line again, and JR Kakogawa Line for Tanigawa, and ride three stops to Nihon Heso Koen Station, or take a taxi (about 10 minutes from Nishiwakishi Station).

●Parking: Available on-site.

●Language support: Basic English support is available, but it’s best to go with someone who speaks Japanese or contact them ahead of time.

Why You Should Go

If you're searching for a quiet, local experience that goes beyond sightseeing—something that lets you feel connected to Japan's traditions while supporting innovative, sustainable design—tamaki niime is that place.

I know I’ll be back here! Maybe next time, I’ll stay longer. Because tamaki niime isn’t just about what you wear. It’s about how you live.