Having lived and worked in Hyogo for two and a half years, I’ve traveled extensively across Japan. My home country, Benin, in West Africa, has a mild tropical climate and does not experience four distinct seasons like Japan. Because of this, I always seek out destinations where I can fully appreciate Japan’s seasonal beauty. The joy of traveling lies in discovering something new with every journey. This time, I visited birthplace of Tamba ware, a place I had yet to explore. Through encounters with local sweets, crafts, and traditions, I found myself enriched and rejuvenated!

Discovering a Taste of Tradition in Beans and Chestnuts

The Odagaki Shoten building is a registered Tangible Cultural Property of Japan.

The day after my delightful Tamba pottery experience (see Part 1 for details), I took a 45-minute bus ride to Tamba Sasayama Castle Town—a place I had long wanted to visit. This charming town, steeped in history and surrounded by nature, is located in an area renowned for its Tamba Kuromame (black beans). These large, flavorful beans, nurtured by the unique climate and fertile soil of Sasayama, are a highly prized specialty known for their nutritional value.

As a sweets enthusiast, I couldn’t pass up the chance to visit Odagaki Shoten, a long-established black bean specialty store that has been in business since 1734, for a taste of sweets made with Tamba Kuromame. The store offers a variety of products featuring Tamba black beans, Tamba Dainagon azuki beans, and other local beans. It also operates a café, Odagaki Mamedo, where visitors can enjoy black bean tea, Tamba chestnut mont blanc, and other delightful treats.

ODAGAKI Mont Blanc, made with plenty of Tamba chestnuts (1500 yen).

I ordered the ODAGAKI Mont Blanc, a beautifully presented dessert that looked almost too cute to eat. As I took a bite, the delicate sweetness of Japanese chestnuts spread gently across my palate. To accompany the mont blanc, I chose black bean tea (700 yen), which was served with three different kinds of black bean snacks. It was so delicious that I couldn’t resist buying some to take home as souvenirs.

Sekitei (Stone Garden), a garden composed of stones, rocks, and moss.

From our seats, we had a special view of the Sekitei (Stone Garden), open only to café customers. As I savored my favorite sweets, I found myself completely at peace, immersed in the serene atmosphere of the garden.

Stepping Back in Time and Experiencing History First-Hand with a Samurai Armor Dressing.

The ruins of Sasayama Castle, located in the center of Sasayama City in Tamba, are surrounded on all sides by a moat, which served as a key defensive feature.

Sasayama Castle’s Daishoin, a wooden residential building constructed in 1609 alongside the castle.

To deepen my understanding of the region’s history, I continued on to Sasayama Castle, which was commissioned by the SHOGUN Tokugawa Ieyasu in 1609. The castle was unique in that it was built without a central keep. Instead, its main structure, the Daishoin, served as the political hub where feudal lords—the rulers of Japan’s various fiefdoms at the time—resided and conducted their affairs. Although it was destroyed by fire in 1944, it was rebuilt in 2000 thanks to the passionate wishes and donations of the citizens of Sasayama, and it has since become a popular tourist attraction.

Does it suit me? Experience Sanada Yukimura's Armor

The reason I wanted to visit the Daishoin at the Sasayama Castle Ruins was to try out the “samurai armor dressing experience.” I chose the bright red helmet and armor of Sanada Yukimura, a warlord from the Warring States period. Despite the armor’s imposing appearance, I was surprised at how light it felt when I put it on. I snapped a few photos posing as Yukimura, with the staff member who helped me get dressed calling out to me. I was careful not to bump my head on the ceiling with the large deer antlers!

The black lacquered armor of Date Masamune is a favorite among Japanese tourists, while the Sanada Yukimura armor I chose seems to be more popular with foreign visitors (note: this is just my personal opinion).

A playful road embedded with Tamba-yaki ceramic plates.

Tamba Sasayama has steadfastly preserved the region’s history. As I explored the city, I discovered Tamba-yaki scattered throughout, which deepened my appreciation for its rich cultural heritage. The locals were incredibly friendly, and I had many memorable encounters. There were moments when I felt "all alone in the wilderness," and the solitude in the vast landscape provided precious time for reflection. My experiences over these two days—spent meeting people, connecting with the land, walking in the mountains, and savoring seasonal foods—have gently filled my heart.

Click here for day 1 of the experience

https://www.hyogo-tourism.jp/world/reviews/34

Spots

Odagaki Mamedo

https://www.odagaki.co.jp/

Address: 19 Tamba-Sasayama Shitatsumachi, Hyogo Prefecture

TEL: 079-552-0011

Business Hours: Odagaki Mamedo: 11:00–17:00 (Last orders at 16:00)

Closed: Thursday (or the following weekday if Thursday is a national holiday), Year-end and New Year holidays

 Main Store: 9:30–17:30, Closed only during the Year-end and New Year holidays

Armor Dressing Experience (Sasayama Castle Daishoin)

https://withsasayama.jp/oshoin_taiken_reserve/

Address: 2-3 Kitashinmachi, Tamba-Sasayama Kitashinmachi, Hyogo Prefecture

TEL: 079-552-4500

Reservations: Required in advance

Fee per person: 2,000 yen + admission fee

Admission: Adults: 400 yen, High school and university students: 200 yen, Elementary and junior high school students: 100 yen