I've been working in Hyogo for two and a half years, traveling to various places in Japan. My home country, Benin in West Africa, has a warm tropical climate without the four seasons like Japan, so when planning my trips, I always seek out places rich in nature where I can experience the beauty of Japan's seasons. The charm of travel lies in constantly discovering new things and making new encounters. This time, I visited the home of Tamba-yaki pottery, a place I had never been before. Through various encounters with sweets, crafts, and traditions, I came back feeling refreshed and enriched!

Tamba-yaki: A Traditional Pottery Art Preserved for 850 Years.

The Tachikui district, home of Tamba pottery

On this trip, I visited the Tamba Traditional Crafts Park Tachikui Ceramic Village, located in the Tachikui district of Tamba Sasayama City, the heart of Tamba pottery. This is a comprehensive facility where you can learn deeply about the history and culture of Tamba-yaki. They offer a "Satobito Guide" (local guide) service that requires advance reservation. When you tell them what kind of pottery you'd like to make and your preferences, the guide matches you with a suitable pottery studio from among approximately 50 kilns (only English service available). I told them "I like flowers and plants, and I'm interested in practical pottery items."

In the Tachikui district of Tamba Sasayama City, pottery studios and cafes using Tamba pottery are scattered around the central Tamba Traditional Crafts Park Tachikui Ceramic Village.

Tamba-yaki is one of Japan's Six Ancient Kilns (Nihon Rokkoyō), produced in Tamba Sasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture, a traditional pottery-making region. The Six Ancient Kilns refer to six pottery production centers established between around 900 and the late 1200s that continue their traditions to this day. In 2017, the Six Ancient Kilns were designated as Japan Heritage, bringing wider recognition to their value and cultural significance.

While glazes are typically glass-like coatings applied to ceramics, Tamba-yaki is characterized by its unique "natural glaze" (shizen-yu) that forms when wood ash falls onto the pieces in the kiln and melts at high temperatures, rather than being artificially applied. This process creates beautiful, chance-born patterns as the wood ash melts and naturally forms a glaze on the surface of the pottery. Another distinctive feature is its wide range of uses, from formal tea ceremony implements and flower vases to everyday items like plates and bowls that can be used in daily life.

Meeting a Young Potter Combining Tradition with Innovation

Tanzan Kiln continues to create pieces that suit modern lifestyles while preserving traditional techniques and natural materials.

I took a bus from Aino Station on the JR Fukuchiyama Line to reach the Tamba Traditional Crafts Park. It's about a 3-5 minute walk from the nearest bus stop. With mounting excitement, I arrived to meet Yusuke Morimoto, a young potter from Tanzan Kiln.

Mr. Morimoto first showed me the climbing kiln (noborigama) built about 150 years ago. A climbing kiln is a traditional kiln used for firing pottery. This is the oldest existing kiln for Tamba pottery, measuring 47 meters in length.

The "Noborigama" climbing kiln, built in 1895

Next, he showed me parts of Tanzan Kiln's gallery, meeting room, and workshop. While every space was fascinating, I found the workshop most appealing.

In the workshop, you can get a special glimpse of pieces in the bisque-fired stage before they make it to the gallery

The Morimoto family cat

A plump cat wandered around the workshop, which was really cute and soothing. Though I was nervous at first, Mr. Morimoto's friendly welcome made the workshop feel comfortable.

Mr. Morimoto explaining 3D modeling

Mr. Morimoto enthusiastically explained the pottery-making process. To my surprise, he uses 3D technology to create some of his ceramic pieces. I was deeply impressed seeing how he combines traditional techniques with modern technology. Learning how artisans constantly challenge themselves helped me understand why Japanese traditional crafts maintain their competitiveness and appeal in the global market. Now, it's finally time to try making pottery...!

Trying My Hand at Pottery Using the "Tatara" Technique!

First, rolling the clay into an even slab

Under Mr. Morimoto's guidance, I tried making pottery. We started with the traditional "tatara" slab-building technique. Kneading the clay, rolling it out, and shaping it into form...

Placing the clay on a plaster mold created with Mr. Morimoto's 3D skills

Next, I placed the clay on the mold to shape it. Through this experience, I realized how modern digital technology can evolve traditional pottery techniques, enabling the creation of pieces with complex shapes and precise designs.

The vessel's shape is complete!

The shape is done! After this, it will be dried, bisque-fired, glazed, and then final-fired to complete the piece.

Exploring the Cafes of Tachikui District: A Harmony with Nature

This is Haru the goat, freely roaming around the cafe's garden!

Touya cafe's Royal Milk Tea and seasonal Matcha Cheesecake. Set price: ¥1,190 (prices vary by season)

The area around the Tamba Traditional Crafts Park is dotted with cafes where you can relax while enjoying the atmosphere of this pottery village. From among the spots recommended by Ms. Kaida of the Satobito Guide service, I chose Touya cafe. The seasonal menu using fresh ingredients made me appreciate Japan's four seasons. Each dish is served on different pieces of Tamba pottery, creating a special feeling as if being welcomed into someone's home. While admiring the pottery, I enjoyed a leisurely chat with Ms. Kaida over milk tea.

"retes" with its distinctive red plaster walls is a unique shop combining a florist, plant shop, and coffee stand

Stepping inside reveals a stylish arrangement of plants

Just a minute's walk from Touya cafe stands "retes," a shop with eye-catching red plaster walls. Plaster (shikkui) is a traditional Japanese building material with a long history as a natural material. Inside, alongside plants, the shop displays many stylish pots and vases, including Tamba pottery. Looking at the flower vessels, ranging from modern designs to practical pieces, I found inspiration for my next pottery experience.

Creating a One-of-a-Kind Vase with a Master Potter

Securing the clay in the center of the potter's wheel and using both hands to pull it up and down

Next, I was guided to the workshop of Mr. Gensho Ichino at "Tsubo-ichi." Mr. Ichino had DIY-ed the potter's wheel area and shelving himself, creating a well-organized and functional space. His works, born in this workshop, feature warm designs that make the most of natural materials, appealing to both those seeking practical pieces and those looking for artistic value.

Under Mr. Ichino's guidance, I initially struggled with the potter's wheel. Placing my hands on both the inside and outside while shaping was challenging. Apparently, my hands were quite large (laughs). It was exciting to watch the clay take the shape of a vase under my hands. I started imagining where I'd place it - by the window or in a cabinet - and what flowers I'd arrange in it...my imagination kept growing.

The shaped vase. The pottery studio will handle the drying and bisque firing process

The finished pieces arrived later by mail! They've become treasured souvenirs of my visit.

Pieces created during the pottery experience at Tsubo-ichi. From left: a cutlery rest, a flower vase made on the electric wheel, and a hand-built bowl

Shopping for Souvenirs at "Potter's Alley," the Heart of Ceramic Village

A collection of works from 51 pottery studios

To conclude my Tamba pottery experience, I went souvenir hunting at "Potter's Alley." This is a communal shop featuring works from 51 pottery studios. Each studio has its own display booth, showcasing various designs and techniques - it's enjoyable just to walk around and look. Since you can purchase any displayed pieces on the spot, I searched among the many beautiful items for a gift for my friend. And I found this vase!

I found this small, lovely vase - I plan to give it to my friend as a present!

An Evening of Duck Hot Pot and Hot Springs, Peace in the Mountain Silence

A historic hot spring area located in the Kusayama basin, northern Tamba Sasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture

My accommodation was at Kusayama Onsen in Sasayama City, about 1 hour and 10 minutes by train and bus from the Ceramic Village. Kusayama Onsen is known for its "kinsen" (golden spring) - brownish hot spring water rich in iron content. Surrounded by abundant nature, this area is also famous for its game meat dishes, including wild boar hot pot (botan-nabe) and venison dishes.

A hot spring accommodation surrounded by Tamba Sasayama's rich nature, complete with BBQ area and glamping facilities

After about an 8-minute walk from the bus stop, Seikiso came into view. At first glance, I loved its atmosphere - like a mountain lodge nestled in the forest.

I ordered duck hot pot

Dipping white leeks and duck together in the broth

Nishikiso is popular for its dishes featuring fresh, local ingredients. I tried the "kamo-suki nabe" (duck hot pot). The duck meat had perfect texture, with an exquisite balance between the rich, fatty parts and the sweet lean meat. I enjoyed dipping plenty of white leeks in the broth, which was flavored with duck meatballs, doing "shabu-shabu" style with the duck meat. The crisp texture of the white leeks combined with the tender duck created a perfect combination.

Relaxing in the spacious common area after a bath

All 35 rooms are Western-style twin rooms, equipped with washlet toilets

To keep things interesting for repeat visitors, there are 5 different room designs, each with different wallpaper patterns. My room had orange wallpaper with a cheerful cut pattern - isn't it cute? Tomorrow, more adventures in Tamba Sasayama: I'm looking forward to trying on samurai armor and visiting a popular sweets shop! Good night...

■Continue here for Day 2
https://www.hyogo-tourism.jp/world/reviews/36

Spots

Tamba Traditional Crafts Park Tachikui Ceramic Village

https://tanbayaki.com/
Address: 3 Kamitachikui, Imata-cho, Tamba Sasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture
Tel: 079-597-2034
Hours: 10:00 AM - 5:00 PM
Closed: New Year's holidays (Dec 29th - Jan 1st), Tuesdays (open on public holidays)
Satobito Guide (Inquiries)
https://tamba-tohaku.com/

Touya cafe

https://www.instagram.com/touyacafe/
Address: Kyuba, Imata-cho, Tamba Sasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture
Tel: 079-506-6930
Closed: Thursday and Friday
Hours: Mon/Tue/Wed 11:30-16:30 (Last order 16:00)
Sat/Sun/Holidays 11:00-16:30 (Last order 16:00)

Retes

https://retes.jp/
https://www.instagram.com/retes.jp
Address: 5-1 Kamitachikui, Imata-cho, Tamba Sasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture
Tel: 079-506-3101
Closed: Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday (Open on public holidays, winter closure period applies)
Hours: 11:00 - 18:00

Nishikiso

https://kusayamaonsen-nishikisou.com/
Address: 122-1 Tohkata, Tamba Sasayama City, Hyogo Prefecture
Tel: 079-592-0045