I had dreamed of moving to Japan, and of the five years I have now spent living here, two of those years have been in Hyogo Prefecture. I love Hyogo with its mountains and sea nearby and its delicious food. I went to Awaji Island to discover more of Hyogo's charms, and I came across many scenes that felt like something out of a fairy tale.

The boundary between light and shadow at Tadao Ando's Honpukuji Mizumido.

A beautiful pond where lotus flowers bloom in summer, discovered in a 2000-year-old geological formation.

The first place I visited was Honpukuji, a Shingon Buddhist temple said to have been founded more than 800 years ago. Its modern concrete main hall, called “Mizumido,” was designed by the world-renowned architect Tadao Ando and completed in 1991. I heard it was Ando’s very first work on Awaji Island. The temple's main image of Yakushi Nyorai, designated as an Important Cultural Property by the city of Awaji, is located at the bottom of the stairs in the center of the lotus pond.

It was the beginning of winter when I visited, so I couldn’t see the lotus flowers in bloom. Still, the pond reflecting the mountains and sky under the sparkling sunlight was truly impressive. Descending the stairs that cut through the lotus pond toward the underground Mizumido, I felt as though I was leaving a realm of divine light and stepping into a human-made shadow. It was a mysterious.

Outside the corridor is a light courtyard, allowing sunlight to stream in even though it’s underground.

Once I reached the bottom of the stairs, I was greeted by a vermillion space said to ward off evil spirits. I think that each visitor to Honpukuji Suimido has his or her own unique experience of this place.

Experience a sense of oneness with nature at Awaji Yumebutai.

The sky seen from the Observation Terrace of Awaji Yumebutai sparkles like a gem.

My next destination was Awaji Yumebutai, another project whose grand design was overseen by Tadao Ando. This resort complex was created in 2000 to restore a mountain that was quarried in the 1960s for economic development into a space where people, flora and fauna can coexist. It features an enormous landscape of interconnected facilities – including a greenhouse, outdoor theater, restaurants, an international conference hall, and a hotel – all blending seamlessly with the surrounding natural environment. It’s my favorite spot on Awaji Island.

This garden, Hyakudan-en garden, is a prayer site dedicated to the victims of the Great Hanshin-Awaji Earthquake.

From the 100 terraced flower beds of Hyakudan-en garden stretching along the hillside, I enjoyed the autumn foliage against the backdrop of Osaka Bay. Surrounded by such awe-inspiring natural beauty and the sound of birdsong and rustling leaves, I felt completely at ease!

The dahlias at their peak were dazzling – befitting their symbolic meanings of magnificence and elegance.

The cross formed by light reflecting off the ceiling is a quintessential example of how Ando’s architecture expresses nature through light.

What moved me the most was the Church of the Sea on the second floor of the hotel. Stepping inside felt like leaving the everyday world to commune with something divine. There I felt the sky, light, and a sense of eternal life all at once.

Meat, seafood, vegetables – the Mampuku Gozen is perfect if you want a bit of everything!

For lunch, I headed to Kaisen Ryori Kitora Awaji Yumebutai. I ordered the Mampuku Gozen, which includes grilled Japanese Black Wagyu beef, seafood and vegetable tempura, and sashimi. It was my first time eating Wagyu beef, and I was amazed by the juicy, melt-in-your-mouth texture. The tempura was crisp and light, and the sashimi was incredibly fresh with a nice firm bite.

You can feel the Japanese atmosphere not only in the food, but also in the lighting, wallpaper, and other details.

The colorful Awaji Hanasajiki, a setting like straight out of a movie.

This flower field is adorned with stock flowers in winter. The flowers are replanted three times a year, and about 30 varieties bloom throughout the seasons.

I also visited Awaji Hanasajiki, which offers a panoramic view of seasonal flowers set against the Akashi Strait and Osaka Bay. As soon as I stepped in, I understood why the name means “a seat to admire the flowers.” This time, I wanted a different perspective, so I combined a stroll through the flower fields with the 40-minute Hanasajiki Walking Course provided by the Harmony World riding club.

It feels like you have the sky, sea, and flower fields all to yourself!

At Harmony World, visitors of all skill levels – from expert to beginner – can enjoy both horseback riding and nature. I hadn’t ridden a horse since I was a child and was a bit nervous at first, but the staff reassured me, “You won’t fall off, so there’s no need to worry,” which immediately put me at ease. The view in front of me was from a higher vantage point than if I were on foot, and the refreshing sense of freedom made me feel like the main character in a movie.

Drum turned around as if to say, “Did you call me?” at the sound of the camera shutter.

I was accompanied by Drum, a pony who is nearly 90 years old in human terms. Every time the camera shutter clicked, Drum would stop as if posing for the shot – I couldn’t help but fall in love! I also learned from the staff how carefully they look after the horses to prevent them from getting stressed. It left me feeling all warm inside.

“Galleri” is Danish for “saijiki (gallery seating).”

Finally, I took a break at Galleri, a café inside Awaji Hanasajiki. The café’s large windows offer sweeping views of the flower fields, and it’s the kind of place where you could easily lose track of time. In warmer weather, the terrace seating looks like it would be wonderful!

I was so busy admiring the parfait that my ice cream started to melt…!

I ordered a Hot Matcha Latte and a Mont Blanc Parfait (note that the menu varies by season) and savored a relaxing moment. It was my first time trying a Mont Blanc Parfait. The combination of ice cream, sweet potato, and chestnut created a unique texture. If you visit Galleri, I recommend sitting near the window – the view is beautiful, and the natural light makes your sweets look great in photos.

Awaji Island is about an hour by highway bus from Kobe. Not only can you enjoy the island’s abundant natural beauty, you can also experience architecture that harmonizes with the surrounding environment. As I took photos, I found myself filled with gratitude and a desire to protect this wonderful nature. I can’t wait to see what new views Awaji Island will have in store next time – and of course, to visit Drum again!

Locations

Honpukuji Mizumido

Awaji Yumebutai

Church of the Sea

Kaisen Ryori Kitora Awaji Yumebutai Branch

Harmony World

Awaji Hanasajiki