When I first started traveling around Hyogo, I quickly noticed its vastness, stretching from the Seto Inland Sea to the Sea of Japan. Hyogo Prefecture is the 12th largest among the 47 prefectures—about the size of Kyoto Prefecture and Nara Prefecture combined.

Today, I want to take you to a lesser-known area—the Sea of Japan—Kami Town.

The town is famous for its delicious crabs, the UNESCO-certified San'in Coast Geopark, and hidden cafes owned by welcoming locals. Kami is only 30 minutes away from the famous Kinosaki Onsen, making it a great location to explore unknown sides of the prefecture. Let’s dive in, starting with access information!

Access to Kami Town　

Kami Town is blessed with abundant nature, with 60% of its area designated as a natural park, including the sea, mountains, and villages. Given its size, the best decision would be to rent a car to explore the mountainous areas. However, I cannot drive, so I explored a seaside area called Kasumi, conveniently situated next to Kasumi Station.

Access to Kami from the main cities

As I previously mentioned, the Kasumi area is easily reachable from Kinosaki Onsen -  the hot spring town famous among foreign tourists as one of the most popular and allows tattoos in every onsen establishment. I prepared another guide for Kinosaki Onsen in my next article (記事のリンクを入れてください！).

Getting to Kami Town is a breeze. Simply hop on a local train from JR Kinosaki Station to JR Kasumi Station. The journey is a short 30 minutes, making it a perfect one-day adventure.

A local train from JR Kinosaki Station to JR Kasumi Station takes only 30 minutes

Moreover, you do not need a car to explore the area. Rent a bike at the Kami Town Kasumi Tourist Association Center next to the station, or take a walk if the weather allows. Regular bicycles are 500 yen per day, while electric-assist bicycles are 800 yen per day (must be returned by 5:00 p.m.).

What to Expect in Kasumi? The Kingdom of Crab

If you ask the locals in Kasumi about the area's most famous attraction, 99% of them will mention the local delicacies. The area is known as one of the largest crab producers in Japan, attracting many tourists from all over the country.

The first thing you will notice at Kasumi Station is an enormous statue of a crab greeting you above the entrance gate. And no wonder! Kasumi is said to be the birthplace of crab dishes and compared to other regions, you can enjoy crab dishes for a longer period. There are more than 100 inns and ryokan (traditional Japanese hotels) where you can stay during the crab season to enjoy Kasumi crab (red snow crab)　and Matsuba crab (snow crab).

The crab theme can be felt everywhere, starting from Kasumi Station

Where to try crab dishes?

I might have picked the wrong season to visit, coming here during July—the rainiest season in mainland Japan—but I knew exactly where to try that famous Kasumi crab before exploring the area.

I headed to Kani-Maruya, a crab-making factory directly operated by a seafood processing company that has been in business for 90 years. Located near Kasumi Fishing Port, just 15 minutes from the station, the restaurant overlooks the Sea of Japan. I aimed to try their original “Maruya-don”—rice topped with crab boiled in a method handed down from generation to generation.

Order the original carb rice bowl at Kani-Maruya

I won’t lie if I say I’d love to try the same dish during the crab fishing season (which starts from September to the end of May next year), but the tender crab meat was so flavorful and delicious! The only downside is that during the off-season, they serve the special rice bowl only on Saturdays and Sundays. On any other day, you are welcome to come by to get some original processed crab products or, my favorite, crab miso.

Some souvenirs to get: crab miso

Exploring Okami Park

After some rest, I decided to walk to a nearby park. The weather wasn't perfectly suitable for outdoor activities but added a mysterious allure to the scene. The rain gave the sea a somber depth, and the heavy clouds created a dramatic backdrop. It felt nostalgic, even though it was my first visit to Kasumi.

Okami Park is very colorful all year round due to different flowers in the vicinity

The walk to Okami Park took less than 15 minutes, and soon, I was looking at the endless Sea of Japan. Okami Park, initially called Itsukishima, was an island connected to the mainland by accumulating river sediment. The tsunami may have temporarily washed away the sand connecting Okami Park to the mainland, making it appear as an island for a brief period. Over time, the island reconnected to the mainland, but no records specify when this occurred.

A beautiful stone lantern in the middle of the park and Shiroishi Island in the background

During the Edo period (1603-1867), the island was used by sailors to observe the waves and wind to decide whether to set sail. It is one of the most popular photo spots in the region, with a beautiful stone lantern in the middle of the park and Shiroishi Island in the background. I heard that the sunsets are very pretty here, but on the day I visited, it rained so heavily that I had to promptly find some shelter to dry off and have something hot to drink. And that’s how I found the Old Private House Cafe & Rental Space Okami.

Old Private House Cafe & Rental Space Okami. From Historic Eatery to Modern Café

Built almost 100 years ago in 1928, Okami-tei was the most popular Japanese-style restaurant in the area because of its excellent location and view of the Sea of Japan.

Okami-tei at the beginning of the 20th century

Now, it is well-preserved and serves as a cozy cafe where you can enjoy fine coffee and other beverages while gazing at the spectacular view across the windows.

It also serves as a rental space for private parties and live performances. You can even rent an electric vehicle (EV) bike here to move through the town quickly.

Beautiful view over the sea at Old Private House Cafe & Rental Space Okami

It was not the perfect day for a bike ride, but I did enjoy the calm time drinking coffee while feeling the time captured in every corner of this beautiful place.

Geotaxi Tours with Local Guides

On a sunny day, the view over San'in Coast Geopark—the largest Geopark in Japan—must be breathtaking! If you're fortunate enough to have good weather, I highly recommend the Kasumi Geotaxi. This unique experience takes you on a small boat to explore caves that are usually inaccessible by ferry or other large vessels, allowing you to get up close and personal with the mysteries of nature.

A trip around San'in Coast Geopark—the largest Geopark in Japan

Three captains, actually fishermen, will guide you through the most spectacular scenery in the San'in region—Frog Rock, Heart Rock, Shiroishi Island, etc. The 30-minute course costs about 4,000 yen per person, and you can book the course you prefer via their official site* (use the translation function for this): https://kasumi-geo-taxi.com/course/.

*The boats operate from May to September.

Obiki Nohana Observatory

If you're not in the mood for a boat ride, I have a beautiful suggestion for you—the Obiki Nohana Observatory. Unfortunately, the weather wasn't great during my visit, but the sea view with rough waves from the cliffs was breathtaking, even on a rainy day!

The highlight of my trip - the Obiki Nohana Observatory

The observatory is on a cape made of andesite, a rock formed by cooled lava. Along the promenade, you can see structures (hyaloclastite) created by the cooling and fracturing of lava in the water.  On the opposite shore, longitudinal fractures (columnar joints) are seen in the rock wall.

Even on rainy day, this place looked magical!

It's worth mentioning that Kasumi has been recognized as one of the “100 Sunsets of Japan.” The sunset over the horizon in summer is incredibly stunning! Another good reason to stay at one of the many inns by the coast.

KAN-ICHI: Souvenirs and Fresh Seafood at Farmer’s Harbour Market

Of course, I must mention one of the best places in Kami Town to get some souvenirs—KAN-ICHI (Farmer’s Harbour Market).

The best place in Kami Town to get some souvenirs—KAN-ICHI

Situated 10 minutes from Kasumi Station, the restaurant/market was built almost ten years ago, inspired by Portland aesthetics. Here, you can get handmade local products, seafood landed at the fishing port that day, farm products picked in the Tashima area, and cute souvenirs to remember your trip.

Cute souvenirs to remember Kasumi

The owner is a buyer, so they also serve seafood purchased every morning at the restaurant. Depending on the season, you can enjoy a variety of seafood such as Kasumi crab, squid, and rock oysters!

Visit Kasumi during winter for the freshest carb dishes at KAN-ICHI

In addition, they have their vegetable garden in front of the facility, where the staff members grow their vegetables. Many of the ingredients like some vegetables and rice used in the dishes served at the restaurant come from the staff themselves.

In conclusion

I hope this guide gives you a good overview of Kami Town and its hidden gems. Kami Town has something to offer everyone, whether you’re a fan of nature, local cuisine, or simply exploring new places. Its proximity to Kinosaki Onsen makes it an ideal addition to any travel itinerary, providing a perfect escape from the more frequented tourist spots. So, the next time you find yourself near Kinosaki Onsen, take a short detour to discover the enchanting charms of Kami Town—you won't be disappointed.