Hyogo Prefecture is home to numerous hot springs, including famous ones like Kinosaki Onsen and Arima Onsen. Not only is there a large number of hot springs, but each has its own distinct mineral composition, landscape, and unique culture, which adds to their appeal.

One such hot spring, Yumura Onsen, located on the northern side of Hyogo Prefecture facing the Sea of Japan, is about an hour by car from Kinosaki Onsen. Known for its historical roots dating back to the Heian period, Yumura Onsen is also famous for its skin-friendly hot spring waters, often referred to as the "beauty spring" for their skincare benefits. The town offers many ways to enjoy itself, from its nostalgic and compact streets to the local custom of using 98°C hot spring water to cook food. Around the area, you’ll find unique cafés and even places where you can soak in the hot springs or warm pools while wearing a swimsuit. Let’s dive into the many charms of this lovely town.

Strolling the Retro Town of Yumura Onsen, With Different Sights by Day and Night

Yumura Onsen can be accessed from Kobe or Himeji via the JR San'in Line, getting off at JR Hamasaka Station and taking a 25-minute bus ride, or by getting off at JR Yoka Station and taking a 75-minute bus ride. Additionally, there is a limited express bus service from Osaka directly to Yumura Onsen, taking about 3 hours (note that the service is in Japanese, so using a translation tool is recommended).

When you arrive by bus and walk down a short path from the bus stop, you’ll be greeted by a beautiful view. A vermillion bridge and weeping willow trees swaying in the breeze create a charming atmosphere.

The hot spring town stretches along the Haruki River and is compact, with foot bath spots, ryokan (traditional inns), and restaurants all within walking distance, making it easy to explore on foot.

Yumura Onsen is known for its skin-friendly waters, which are said to have beautifying effects and can warm your body to its core, earning it the nickname "beauty spring." In Japan, hot springs known for their skin benefits are often called "bijin no yu" (beauty springs).

While the daytime scenery is beautiful, the nighttime view of the hot spring town is also delightful. As night falls, the retro lanterns along the river and Japanese-style paper lanterns are lit, adding a different kind of beauty to the atmosphere.

Note: The painted lanterns are installed only during the summer season.

Experience the "Boiling" Culture with Japan’s One of the Hottest Springs!

After checking into your hotel, the first place you’ll want to visit is the “Arayu” (Hot Spring Boiling Area).

The source of Yumura Onsen is called "Arayu," and its temperature is a staggering 98°C, making it one of Japan’s hottest hot springs.

The steam from the boiling water rises in thick clouds, and when you get close, you can feel the intense heat.

"Yugaku" refers to briefly dipping vegetables and other ingredients in the hot water to cook them. Arayu discharges 470 liters of hot spring water every minute, and the local custom is to boil eggs and vegetables in the hot spring water and eat them. Visitors can purchase eggs and vegetables at nearby shops and enjoy this local tradition. Yumura Onsen boasts 63 hot spring sources, with a total output of 2,300 liters per minute, and the hot water is distributed to households in the area.

In Beppu, another famous hot spring town in Japan, there is a similar culture of "jigoku mushi," which involves steaming food with hot spring steam. This unique hot spring tradition is fascinating to experience.

Feeling hungry, I decided to buy some eggs at a nearby shop and used a designated "yugaku" area to dip them in the hot spring water, waiting about 10 minutes for them to cook.

The eggs, despite not being salted, had a delicate saltiness and were delicious. (You can also get salt at the shop if you wish to season them.)

Afterward, I headed to the foot bath by the river, located just below Arayu.

Soaking my tired feet in the warm water, I enjoyed the view of koi swimming in the Haruki River and the serene hot spring landscape. Taking a moment to relax in the foot bath during a stroll is one of the unique pleasures of Yumura Onsen.

Enjoy Local Sweets Made with “Tochi Nuts” and Visit Unique Shops

Earlier, I mentioned the "yugaku" culture of Yumura Onsen, and if you’re unsure what to boil, be sure to visit "Tochisen," just a short walk from Arayu. The shop offers a surprising variety of products, including eggs, vegetables, pudding, sake, coffee, and more.

One more thing you shouldn’t miss at Tochisen is their sweets made with "tochi nuts" (Japanese horse chestnuts), such as "tochi mochi" (tochi rice cakes) and "tochi daifuku" (tochi-filled mochi).

Tochi mochi and tochi daifuku are made by removing the bitterness from tochi nuts and steaming them with glutinous rice. The unique, nutty flavor is addictive! Why not try these traditional treats at Tochisen, which continues to preserve the authentic methods and flavors?

About a 3-minute walk from Tochisen, I also stopped by “Yuzukitei Oba Café,” a café located in a 130-year-old renovated farmhouse, run by women with an average age of 77 (as of the time of this interview). You’re greeted with a cheerful "Irasshai!" (Welcome!).

Inside the café, you’ll find walls covered with inspiring quotes from the grandmothers, such as "The peak of life is at 90!" The handwritten drawings and quotes add to the charming atmosphere.

When you sit down, you’ll first notice a small shrine called the "Oba Open Luck Shrine" in the café. As you look around, you’ll also spot a replica of the famous Tajima beef. Just observing the quirky and cozy interior makes for an entertaining experience.

The café's specialty is the "Oba no Konjou Yaki" (Grandmother’s Determination Pancake), a large Imagawa-yaki (Japanese pancake) filled with tochi mochi and local "Mikata Ruby" red beans. The name reflects the grandmother's strong spirit of "grilling with determination even at 90!"

Another must-try is the "Oba's First Love Taste" (Tochi Ohagi), a nostalgic sweet that was traditionally made at family gatherings in the Tajima region. The tochi mochi, prepared with great care to remove the bitterness from the nuts, is full of flavor and perfectly sweet. It’s a taste you’ll want to enjoy again and again.

With its gentle flavors and the lively, humorous atmosphere of the café, "Yuzukitei Oba Café" is sure to lift your spirits. Be sure to stop by and enjoy the experience.

Enjoy Five Types of Hot Springs in a Swimsuit at “Refresh Park Yumura”

In Japan, the traditional culture is to bathe in hot springs naked, which might be challenging for first-time visitors. However, Yumura Onsen offers a wonderful facility where you can enjoy various outdoor baths and pools while wearing a swimsuit!

“Refresh Park Yumura,” located just a short hill climb from the Yumura Onsen bus stop, is a fantastic spot to enjoy a variety of hot springs. The large facility features five outdoor baths, eight health baths, and an indoor swimming pool. You can rent swimsuits and enjoy the outdoor baths and pools surrounded by nature, making it an ideal option for first-time visitors (Note: swimsuits are not allowed in the health baths).

One of the first things you’ll see after exiting the changing room is the spacious heated pool, which has high ceilings and a lovely view of the surrounding greenery. The outdoor baths are reached by a staircase from there.

One of the outdoor baths, "Shiki-buro" (Four Seasons Bath), allows you to enjoy different seasonal views while soaking. The breathtaking scenery that surrounds the bath makes the climb worthwhile.

Other unique baths include the "Taki-buro" (Waterfall Bath), which features a 4-meter waterfall, the "Cave Observation Bath," where you emerge into a spectacular view after passing through a cave, the "Sake Barrel Bath," inspired by the region’s sake-making tradition, and the "Steam Bath," which has a Nordic-like atmosphere. All of these are wonderful cultural experiences. These outdoor baths are all mixed-gender, so you can enjoy the views and the experience with your friends without worrying about being shy.

Refresh Park Yumura also has a relaxing space where you can rest after swimming or bathing. You can unwind on tatami mats and take a break.

If you’re hungry, I recommend the nearby restaurant "Kaede," where you can enjoy authentic Tajima beef grilled right in front of you!

The entry fee for Refresh Park Yumura is 1,000 yen (for the outdoor baths, pool, and health bath area). Renting a swimsuit costs 500 yen (with a 100 yen deposit returned when you return it, making it effectively 400 yen). Despite the wide range of facilities available, the price is very reasonable.

Tattoos are generally not allowed, but if you cover your tattoos with a rash guard or stickers while using the outdoor baths and pool, you can still use these areas.

Japan’s busy tourist seasons can be crowded, but if you visit during off-peak times, you can enjoy the hot springs and beautiful views almost all to yourself. Take your time to relax and enjoy the baths and pool at your own pace.

Not Just Hot Springs! Other Travel Options in Northern Hyogo

Yumura Onsen, with its swimsuit-friendly hot spring facilities, local delicacies, and unique cafés, has much to offer. There are also many other fascinating spots nearby that are worth visiting. A 10-minute taxi ride away is the "Hyogo Prefectural Tajima Ranch Park," where you can interact with Tajima cattle, and Takeno Beach, with its crystal-clear waters and variety of activities, is also close by. Why not take your time and explore the northern part of Hyogo Prefecture at a leisurely pace?

Tajima Beef Experience: https://www.hyogo-tourism.jp/world/note/21

Takeno Canoe Tour: https://www.hyogo-tourism.jp/world/note/22

Yumura Onsen
Address: 〒669-6821 Hyogo Prefecture, Mikata District, Shinonsen Town, Yu
Website: Yumura Onsen Website

Refresh Park Yumura
Address: 〒669-6821 Hyogo Prefecture, Mikata District, Shinonsen Town, Yu 1371
Website: Refresh Park Yumura Website

Tochisen
Address: 〒669-6821 Hyogo Prefecture, Mikata District, Shinonsen Town, Yu 1250
Website: Tochisen Website

Yuzukitei Oba Café
Address: 〒669-6821 Hyogo Prefecture, Mikata District, Shinonsen Town, Yu 1261
Website: Yuzukitei Oba Café Website